Organic Gardening FAQ

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What is Organic Gardening?
Why do people garden organically?
How does one get started with organic gardening?
If I can't use synthetic fertilizers, what can I use?
How do I kill bugs?
Oh, no! There's a fungus among us!

Got a question that's not listed above? Contact us at gardeninfo@aogc.org.

What is Organic Gardening? (top)

Simply put, organic gardening is growing plants without the use of synthetic pesticides, fungicides, and fertilizers. Organic gardening looks at how plant problems are solved in nature and attempts to recreate these processes in your own back yard.

Why do people garden organically? (top)

Organic gardeners have a number of reasons for gardening as they do. Some are concerned about the effect that synthetics may have on our environment and health. Others have children and pets and would rather not keep dangerous poisons around if they don't have to, or they don't want their children and pets playing in a yard that has been sprayed with the stuff. Still others - and I count myself among them - are basically lazy gardeners and find organic methods to be easier and more forgiving.

How does one get started with organic gardening? (top)

First, you'll need to stop applying synthetic products to your yard. Many of the organic remedies you'll find elsewhere on the site assume a yard with healthy soil and the beneficial organisms found therein, and won't work on a yard that is treated with synthetics. We are fortunate in this day and age to have many pre-packaged organic alternatives available to us to make things easy but, even if you don't have sources in your area, help may be as close as the local feed store. But before applying anything to the plants, lets take a look at other things you should be doing:

1. If your ground is heavy clay or compacted from construction, etc. consider aerating. Do this also if you have thatch.
2. Add organic material to the soil when possible. Compost, especially from your own pile, is a great material to add. Ordinary white table sugar does wonders for loosening up hard soil.
3. Provide places for bug-eaters to hang out, eat and drink. This includes many birds and beneficial insects. You probably won't be thrilled to hear this but spiders, snakes and lizards eat lots of insects and they're great help to your garden.
4. Mulch all bare soil in your yard. Mulch helps keep the moisture in the ground longer, shades the soil from the hot summer sun, and insulates it against freezing air. As the mulch breaks down, it provides additional nutrients for your soil. Don't use gravel or pine bark because they won't break down. Better choices are hardwood bark or shredded tree trimmings.
5. Stop watering so frequently! Most plants that are even somewhat adapted to our Texas weather can thrive on just 1" per week. Watering should be deep and infrequent: about one inch of water, once per week. Your container plants, of course, will still need frequent watering.
6. Select plants that are adapted to where you live. It'll save you a lot of work and a lot of money. Organic nurseries often specialize in native and well-adapted plants, and they have knowledgeable personnel who can help you select the right flowers, trees, shrubs, and ground covers. If you don't have an organic nursery nearby, call your local agriculture extension office for recommendations.

If I can't use synthetic fertilizers, what can I use? (top)

There are now many fine pre-packaged organic fertilizers on the market that are reasonably priced and easy to use - check your local organic nursery or feed store. Rates of application will be on the bag. In addition to these products, you can use:
worm castings - 5 -250lbs./1000 sq. ft.
alfalfa meal - 25-50 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
cottonseed meal- 10-35 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
liquid seaweed - per bottle directions
bone meal (good for flowers and bulbs) - 10-30 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
blood meal (high nitrogen) - 10-30 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
bat guano (high nitrogen) - 10-20 lbs./1000 sq. ft.

The quantities listed are recommendations in case your product includes no directions (or if the directions included are how to feed it to your cattle!). Quantity isn't critical for most of these, as you can see from the ranges of application rates. Although it's a good idea to water in the fertilizer (keeps it from blowing away), it is not critical for any but the high nitrogen ones: the rest won't burn your lawn.

You can also use composted manure as a fertilizer, but don't use it raw. Raw manure can burn your plants, it smells bad, and it contains weed seeds just looking for a place to sprout. Composting the manure takes care of these problems. Organic fertilizers are generally applied to the lawn 2-3 times per year.

How do I kill bugs? (top)

Whoa!!!! Now wait just a minute! Which bugs are you trying to kill? Part of the organic method is to realize that 95% of the bugs you see in your yard are actually helping you out. Many of them look at the bugs that are eating your plants and think to themselves "what a delicious meal" or "that looks like a nice place to lay my eggs." There are organic methods for pest control, but please realize that broadcasting ANY type of pesticide, organic or synthetic, can do a great deal of harm to your yard.

OK. Now that the speech is out of the way and you've identified a specific problem (i.e. aphids on your mums, hornworms on your tomatoes, etc.), here are some recommendations for removal.

Pick them off and dump them into a bucket of soapy water.
Aphids can be removed with a strong spray of water from the hose.
Dust diatomaceous earth (food grade only, NOT swimming pool DE) around problem areas. If you have outdoor pets, treat entire yard when fleas are a problem.
Use natural pyrethrum spray or powder.
Citrus oil kills insects, and is an excellent cleaner to boot.
Use garlic-pepper tea as a repellent.
Many BT products are available for caterpillars and mosquitoes.
Beneficial nematodes work against fire ants, grasshoppers, and grubs. Follow package directions.
Release beneficial insects (lacewings, lady bugs, trichogramma wasps).

After you've been organic for awhile, you'll find that your yard is more balanced and many bug problems you had in the past will no longer exist or won't be as severe.

Oh, no! There's a fungus among us! (top)

Some fungi are good, and some are bad. Let's start with the good. The white stringy mold-like substance you may see growing on the mulch in your flower beds is a beneficial fungus. It helps break down the mulch into organic material that the earthworms will incorporate back into the soil. It's evidence that you're doing something right in your yard. Just for kicks, pick some up and take a whiff: the smell will remind you of a walk through a forest. If you don't like the way it looks, just take your garden rake and move the affected area around so it doesn't show.

The mushrooms that grow in your yard after lots of rain are also breaking down material to be incorporated into the soil. If you're afraid your kids are going to try to eat one (not recommended), just knock them down and put them in your compost pile.

Fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew do cause problems, and there are organic treatments. Generally improving the soil's health and watching your watering practices should help, but are often not enough on their own. Spraying the affected areas with a baking soda mixture (one teaspoon baking soda and a few drops of soap in two quarts water) is a good remedy. Spraying with a garlic spray or compost tea is also effective. Copper and sulfur products are not recommended because they can harm the beneficial soil microorganisms and beneficial insects.

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